Friday, October 5, 2012

The theatre...of life

Something I am loving about Italy, is the "entertainment" all around me.  It is wonderful to see everyone interacting with each other, and the manner in which they do it.  Some things are so dramatic, and perhaps even if they are, the inflection in their voices will lead you to believe that it is! Hmmm....maybe these are my people!  Momma/Daddy/April/Erin/Maria/others....would you agree?!?!? I know me being dramatic is somewhat far fetched, but I am sure you can imagine!

Now on to my day!  I woke up early, reluctantly, but I did get up immediately and went to breakfast.  This morning I had this pastry thing with creme in it...I did not eat the whole thing because who can eat all of those sweets for breakfast; I balanced it out with the coffee yogurt! I also had that same tropical juice! It's very good!  I ate quickly and ran upstairs to get dressed, check facebook & emails, and gather my things to go back to the Questura.  Unsure of how long it would take me to walk there, I allotted 30 minutes; it took like 12.  However, it was a nice walk.  The strange thing was that no one seemed to be going to school this morning.  There were teens/young teens everywhere in the streets, especially the main street (Corso Mazzini).  They were in all of the bars/cafes and to my dismay they were either smoking (really guys?...which I passed a school yesterday and the high school students were outside for what looked like "gym" and a big group of them were smoking), yelling, or groping each other (and I do not mean kissing...I mean groping!).  Anyway, I made my way to the Questura and went inside.  This police type man stopped me and so I gave him my stamped/signed piece of paper saying that I was meeting that guy at 10.  He told me I could NOT enter...not today!  I almost panicked, but then another lady walked up and said that I could go.  So, reluctantly, the police man person lead me to my ever so helpful friend, who by the way speaks more English than he lead on the other day!  However, I am NOT complaining because everything was filled out for me and ready for me to take to the post office!  YAY!!  He explained where I needed to pay for all of the stuff and sent me on my way! November 6th I have to go back to the Questura to be fingerprinted!  I am so grateful that this process was SO very smooth for me!  GOd is so good and came before me and made a way! I know it to be true! It has been evident in how smooth things have seemed to go and how people have been in my path (there at the exact time I need them to be) to help me and make the process easier.

When I left the Questura, I realized I hadn't brought enough money with me to pay all of the fees for the Residence Permit (Permesso di soggiorno...I think).  I ran back by the hotel for a few minutes and then I was off again.  I went almost directly to the big palace post office.  When I mean almost, I mean that I went in H & M because there was a sale sign in the window! Wouldn't you know that like 4 things I wanted were now on sale?!?!? I tried them all on and only like one of them.  However, it was a cute dress, but a string was coming out of it and it wasn't worth it in the end.  So, I left empty handed and went on my way! I stopped in the tobacchi (yes, this is pronounced the way a backwoods southerner would say tobacco) to buy one of the stamps for the Res. Permit and then continued my walk! I stopped at a few shop windows and saw a few things I liked, but could NOT afford.  Saw some cute shoes that were t-straps and I wanted them so that they would be like Rockette shoes!  Oh and H & M has houndstooth stuff...so do other stores...if ONLY they knew, which of course they do not.

I made it to the post office, only to discover a big market set up near it.  I also saw another funeral today...with another silver Mercedes hearse (ahhh the correct spelling!!).  Not food, but clothes, shoes, purses, household items, make up, junk, etc.  Nothing of great quality in my opinion and nothing that warranted me spending money, but I had to resist looking until AFTER the official stuff was taken care of!  So, this time I walked in with my head held high, confidence in my reason for being there, and armed with my Italian dictionary (just in case the other things didn't work!).  Also, I had practiced what I needed to initially say to her! :) I slowly realized that the window I needed was filling up with people who were frustrated with the amount of time they had been waiting there and they were beginning to ignore their numbers and just work it out amongst themselves who went next.  This one lady, very beautiful, was making comments and so I just smiled.  Rapid, under your breath Itailan is definitely not going to be understood by me!  A sweet older man looked at my number and indicated that I would be after him.  More people were coming and going, but this one window was sloooooooooooowww...the same "mean" lady from the other day of course.  I'm pretty sure that they were all commenting on how slowly she was moving.  Then, this lady came in and asked me if she could just ask the lady a question before I went up there.  I was so excited that I understood her Italian the first time she said it that I happily agreed to let her ask her question.  Just then, a man from another window called for me and motioned for me to come to his window!  I gave him my envelope and he asked for my passport (from here on out I was speaking Italian).  I explained that I did not have my original, but I had two copies with me.  He said okay and began processing my paperwork (I IMMEDIATELY THANKED THE LORD FOR THIS BLESSING...).  Once everything was processed, I signed, he ran it through machines, I paid, and then I was out of there.  He told me to go to the Questura on November 6th and I was good to leave.  OH MY GOSH...I am so so so so so so so so so so grateful that this went so smoothly and I never had to wait for hours or anything else extremely frustrating.  I had read where some of the past Fulbrighters had a lot of trouble with these official things.  I have been praying for weeks/months that everything would go smoothly and that God would go before me and lay the foundation, and every day He shows me at least one way that He has done so!! If that isn't amazing...I dont know what is!?!?!

When I left, with a little pep in my step, I headed for the historical center again.  First I explored the market.  It was down the side of the river and on a few side streets; I didn't find anything, but I did get this beautiful picture.  I was also starving, and as things were nearing their closing time (yes, they close right when I want to eat lunch), I stopped at the place where Lilla said was the oldest Gelatteria in Cosenza and once again rewarded myself for a job well done.  This time I was rewarding myself for being MORE (let me repeat that...MORE) patient than every single Italian that came into/was already waiting in the post office.  I chose hazelnut and what I thought was almond...I dont think it was though! :(
I began the step climb.  Believe me when I say that I probably burned every bit of that gelato off during the 3+ hours I was climbing steep steps/hills and also controlling my body coming down them (trying to protect my knees).  I could feel the burn in my legs.  Today, because I was on my own, I explored side streets in this area.  I literally got lost and it was so amazing.  I saw things that fit exactly what I always dreamed Italy would look like.  I touched the walls and imagined the history!  These steps/roads/homes are built out of stone and brick and are part of the mountain/hillside.  It truly is AMAZING!! For only a few seconds, I was a bit afraid that I wouldn't find my way out of this maze.  I did meet the sweetest black kitty cat (with the most amazing green eyes), and once these people were hanging out of their window asking me where I wanted to go.  I told them I was walking and also looking for the theatre.  They were of no use to me though because my Italian sucks.  I hate sucking at something. One of my favorite things that I came across were these two ladies leaning out of their windows talking to each other across the narrow street.  I smelled good food coming from homes; I heard families laughing and having loud discussions; I could hear tvs blaring Italian through the open windows; it was an amazing way to get "lost"!  Anyway, I eventually heard the bumpy road beneath car tires and realized I had found my way back to the "main road".  I took another turn and ended up by the beautiful high school that Lilla was telling me was her original high school (it is closed and they moved to another one).  Then...I found the theatre, but FIRST some pics to try and do justice to the things I was seeing!!



 It was just beautiful!
On to the theatre!  I walked inside the only open door I saw and asked if I could look around.  He said yes, and I was so excited!  It seemed rather simple at first, beautiful, but simple.  Until I walked in and saw the stage, seats, boxes; simply amazing.  I was speechless!  Again, a bit simple, but just GORGEOUS!  I'll let pictures speak for me and then tell more:
Outside of the theatre

The theatre:
It was beautiful! I could not believe my eyes.  My favorite part was that no one was around and therefore no one was paying attention to me.  So, I went on the stage; I took as many pictures as I wanted; I went back stage.  It was amazing!   I sat and just imagined the history.  Then I discovered that truly, no one cared where I went, and so I explored.  I went to the top and looked down; I went in the box seats, etc.  I was also grateful for a bathroom.  I imagine I’ll see a show here at some point, but it was nice to see the theatre while it was empty and untouched.  The only thing I didn’t care for was the eventual smell of someone smoking downstairs.  Why, why, why do the Italians ruin everything with cigarettes?!?!? 

After the theatre, I went to the garden nearby.  I stopped in the little bar to get a bottle of water.  When I could not find a 1 euro coin, because I didn’t have any, the man let me have the water for FREE!! What?!?!? He gave me the bottle for a handshake and double kiss (cheeks of course) in return!  How nice! I immediately thanked God for the small, yet wonderful blessing!  I walked in the garden for a bit and then decided that, in order to protect my knees, it was time to go!   I started the decent back into the center of town, but first I stopped at this small restaurant/bar to get a bite to eat.  Hunger was over taking me (the gelato and toastate were not getting it).  I had this amazing “pizza” as they called it.  Really it was dough of some sort with forgmaggio and spinaci (cheese and spinach) in between.  I had to take some of it off and not eat all of the bread because it was too much, but omg was it good.  The peculiar thing was that they let me go outside to eat it before paying.  This happened to me the other day.  In Florence I had to pay for everything first; benefit of a small town?!?!? Anyway, it was delicious and it was so nice to sit down.  Also, one of the workers inside spoke English and seemed excited to use it; though I was trying to only use my Italian.  

Afterwards, I continued to walk down the street back into the center of town.  I took my time walking and stopped at a few places.  One of the places I stopped was the smaller train station that has a smaller train that takes you into the mountains surrounding Cosenza (La Sila).  It was so tiny and you could walk across the tracks.  It was somewhat poetic to see tracks disappear into the background of beautiful mountains and hillsides.  I will take these trains later…to see and explore!  Naturally, I took some pictures!  
Then, I headed back to the hotel .  I stopped and looked in some shop windows, but I was exhausted.  I came back and wrote some of my blog, caught up on facebook, and watched some of Downton Abbey while I waited for it to be closer to a normal facebook/email time for people at home (and for April to be on facebook).  I am LOVING that people I know have had access to episodes of the newest season of Downton Abbey (if you have not watched this, you MUST!).  Then I was able to talk to April and rest and write.  It was nice just to lay down.  

A while later I got dressed and Valeria (other teacher) was hear right around 6:30 for me.  We went for a walk through the center of town!  We talked about all kinds of things.  Some of the most interesting were some of the differences between our school systems, etc.  I asked her why there were so many students out of school this morning and she said that they were protesting.  PROTESTING?!!?!!  EXCUSE ME WHAT?!?! She said that the students can formally strike and not go to school and there is really nothing that the teachers or administrators can do.  She also said that especially in November they have something called, “Novembrati” (I think this is what she called it) and it is where the students take time out of school (or strike) because things are getting too hard; testing is overwhelming them.  Again, EXCUSE ME WHAT?!?!?!? I explained that this would NEVER cut it in the U.S.  We also talked about how the Italian students do NOT like to read.  She said she tries to tell them that other students read all the time, but they do not believe her.  I explained that in high school, especially, we even have summer reading and are tested on it within the first weeks of school.  We talked about all sorts of things.  I met her sweet daughter, who is 10, Martina (I think).  We talked about my interest and her ideas for how I will be used in their school.  We talked about similarities between southern Italy and the South in the U.S.  She said that her mother wanted me to know that if I ever needed anything, she was there for me.  She showed me her mother’s building, etc.  I am so blown away and blessed by the hospitality that everyone is showing me, that I can barely stand it.  We stopped and bought her daughter some cotton candy, etc.  She was so nice to talk to and she has some realistic expectations for my time in their school! She said that some of the students were upset because they weren’t going to be taught by the American girl.  She also explained that she gets nervous speaking in front of people, even her own colleagues, and this made me feel better, because so do I!  It was a great walk (passegiata).   When she left me at my hotel, she told me that her daughter asked why I was not coming with them for dinner.  She promised me dinner soon, but when she had time to prepare.  Of course I understood and was just grateful for the future invite.  Before I came upstairs, I stopped to ask my favorite hotel guy about coming back to use the internet while I am without it in the apartment.  I had barely gotten the words out of my mouth about moving to the apartment and not having internet for 3 weeks (all in Italian by the way), when HE suggested that I come use theirs!  GOD IS WATCHING OUT FOR ME!! HE HAS PLACED ALL OF THE RIGHT PEOPLE IN MY PATH AT THE RIGHT TIME!!! 

Once upstairs, I talked to Erin for a few minutes on facebook chat (oooooh how I miss my best friend…and how I long for us to be in the same city, though right now I long for her to be in Cosenza!!).  I killed some time and I was getting hungry!  I went down stairs to ask my favorite hotel guy about a place to eat (because his suggestion last night was a WINNER!) He started talking to me (and I understood) and he told me that once I moved, I would need to come back and he could suggest restaurants and things to do .  He asked if I would give him my Italian number once I came back from dinner so that he could suggest things even if I was not at the hotel.  He also complimented my Italian, saying it was beautiful, and told me that at the end of 9 months I would be “secure” in the language.  I told him that I hoped so.   Then,  he walked with me to the corner to show me where to go to find the restaurant he suggested.  Once he walked away, I literally skipped down the sidewalk out of happiness.  People have been so nice and welcoming and warm and friendly.  I was so excited and of course was praying and thanking the Lord for such a warm, nice, friendly gentleman who has been so helpful. 

The restaurant (La Graticola) was one I had been seeing, but it hadn’t been open any of the times I passed by.  I was able to choose my seat and so I chose one where I could see out of the open “doors”.  I ordered some sort of pasta, wine, & of course bread was a starter, so I asked for olive oil.  MAN…I had forgotten how much better the olive oil is here than what is important to America.  Maybe it is the Calabrese olive oil, but it is light (in color and taste) and simply AMAZING!!   I took pictures of course! My wine came in a cute little bottle.  I called my momma to tell her about Valeria and the kind man at the hotel.  **Note about the two restaurants I’ve been to: I LOVE that they ring a bell to let the waiter know that food is ready.  This is so…poetic or something.  Also, it lets me know that it is coming. **  My pasta was AMAZING!!  I could not really read the menu, and had to refuse the anchovy pasta, but mine was AMAZING!! It was this pasta with a red sauce, cheese, and what I think was pieces of eggplant.  When it came it smelled very smokey!  Smokey like a bar-b-que.  Then, I tasted it.  O.M.G. it was so good and tasty and I just wanted to savor every bite of it.  Thankfully it was not nearly as much pasta as last night, so I finished it all; he took my plate before I could provide evidence that I ate it all.  Also, during my meal, I realized that the wall I was looking at across the street said, “Marcello, ti amo”.  What?  I want a Marcello!  I wanted a picture, but I forgot; oh well, it will be there tomorrow.  Oh, before I left the restaurant, they started playing this instrumental/mix version of “We’re off to See the Wizard” from The Wizard of Oz.  Ah, familiarity.  
After I got the check, I walked to the nearest ATM to retrieve money for my landlords tomorrow.   When I returned to the hotel, my favorite person was there and started talking to me.  He reassured me that coming to the hotel for internet was perfectly okay!  Then, he offered me a drink from the bar (for free).  He poured this dessert liquor which was SO GOOD!  It had a bit of a cinnamon taste to it.  I sat down on the couches with him and the bartender, and he gave me the papers that Valeria had forgotten to give to me.  I sat there and discussed Cosenza, schools, etc. etc with Massimo (my favorite guys’ name) and the bartender for like 45 minutes while I sipped my dessert drink.  Also, before we sat down, we exchanged cell phone numbers and he told me that Tuesday he could take me and show me around; Il castello nel cento historic, etc. etc.  He has been so kind.  No worries my friends, he is NOT boyfriend type (or age); he is just the kindest person.  It was nice to sit there and speak Italian.  If I did not understand, he slowed down, repeated what he said, and/or used simpler terms!  THIS is the kind of tutor I need.  Once again, he was surprised at the Italian that I do know, and told me that I would be fluent in 9 months time!  Let’s hope so!    It was nice to just sit and chat and stretch my Italian!!  

I went upstairs acting as giddy as a school girl; not over a man or anything, but over the fact that I was surviving.  Not only am I surviving, but I am thriving.  I am making connections, working on my Italian, settling in a bit (though we’ll see how I survive the time without internet), and loving Cosenza.  A few times tonight I thought, “Forget about Florence, I LOVE Cosenza!!!!”  Valeria mentioned that people in the North were not as nice; I’m telling you, it is ALL ABOUT Southern Hospitality.  That, and God has gone before me and He is going with me!  

Overall, it was an amazing day!  I really am loving Cosenza.  Do I wish MY friends were here to experience it with me?  YES!!! Do I look forward to meeting new people and having someone to do things with, YES!!!  Will I continue to grow closer to the Lord, despite the lack of Christian churches (only Catholic), YES!!!  Do I deep down kind of want to find a cutie cute Marcello?? Well, yes actually, but only if he loves the Lord first! 

Should be an interesting 9 months, but a seemingly fun 9 months!  I do miss my family and friends, but I want them to come HERE!!!  Meagan (who is planning to come in April..woo hoo), posted a video by Brad Paisley on my facebook page this morning that was PERFECT for me!! 

Internet is not working tonight, despite Massimo trying to fix it for me!  Ughh HATE not having internet already! A domain! (until tomorrow) .  

**Sorry for the lack of pictures! I'll add them at a later date! I have limited internet time before they come to get me to go to the apartment! 

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